After Khajuraho, I flew to the ancient city of Varanasi, thought to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world - around 3,000 years old, and considered the center of the Earth in Hindu cosmology. For a town this important, I had high expectations and Varanasi turned out to be all I expected and more.
The holiness of Varanasi was very different from spiritual holiness of Rishikesh. The Ganges River is much more of a part of people's daily and religious lives in Varanasi. People are born on the river, spend each and every day on the river, and are even cremated on the river. On each end of the river are areas designated as burning ghats where cremations occur around the clock. According to Hindu belief, if one dies and is cremated in Varanasi, their soul is released from the cycle of reincarnation.
The ghats, or stairs leading down to the river, are used by people for bathing, praying, washing, and socializing. Varanasi is a large and crowded city and the streets near the river are a maze of alleyways very similar to Seville, Spain.
Life revolves on the river on the best way to experience the start of a day on the Ganges is by boat at sunrise.
Randy's 50th birthday travel adventures
In January and February 2011 I had the fabulous opportunity to travel through Northern India and Nepal. The photos and stories in this blog document my adventures and experiences; what I saw and what I learned. My travel started in Delhi, India and then led me to the spiritual town of Rishikesh, India for a week long stay at a yoga ashram - Rishikesh Yog Peeth. After that I traveled to Khajuraho, India to view the ancient Hindu erotic temples, tour a local farming town, and spend the day at a small Indian village. Next I traveled to the holy Hindu city of Varanasi where life revolves in and around the holy Ganges River. I spent a day visiting the town of Sarnath where Buddha offered his first teachings, and which served as a pre-cursor for my trip to Nepal and the Kopan Monastery to study meditation and Buddhism. After Varanasi, I flew to Kathmandu and spent a couple of days walking the streets of the city before venturing about a half-hour above the city to the Kopan Monastery for a week-long retreat to study meditation and Buddhism. Afterward I went back to Delhi and took a day trip to Agra to see the Taj Mahal.
My last adventure in Khajuraho
My last adventure in Khajuraho was to visit an Indian village. I went on a 1/2 hour bike ride to the village where a worker from the hotel lives. I met his family, nieces, and nephews, and his mother served a simple and delicious home cooked vegetarian Indian meal. The experience was great and it was nice to have the opportunity to see life in a small Indian village.
Khajuraho - touring a revitalized Rajput garden estate
I met a gentleman from Belgium who took me on a tour of one of the gardens he is helping Indian farmers revitalize. The Indian government is working with international groups on a project referred to as the "Lost gardens in Khajuraho." These "gardens" are actually large farming estates previously owned by the Rajput Kingdom and used by the prince and his family as vacation estates. These gardens at one time produced vegetables, fruits, and grains. The estates have a Hindu temple and a small palace, and part of the revitalization project is to restore the temples and palaces.
These photographs are from my day spent at the garden estate learning about efforts to help the Indian landowners learn about sustainable farming practices. The elderly woman in the photos is the owner of the land and she explained to us that her great-grandfather was given the land from the Rajput prince, and it has been held in her family ever since. Some of the pictures are of the cane grown on the farm which is soaked in water, stripped, and then made into rope.
These photographs are from my day spent at the garden estate learning about efforts to help the Indian landowners learn about sustainable farming practices. The elderly woman in the photos is the owner of the land and she explained to us that her great-grandfather was given the land from the Rajput prince, and it has been held in her family ever since. Some of the pictures are of the cane grown on the farm which is soaked in water, stripped, and then made into rope.
Next stop - Khajuraho, India
After leaving Rishikesh I traveled by overnight train to the small northern India town of Khajuraho. Khajuraho has the largest group of medieval Hindu and Jain temples, famous for their explicit depiction of sexual life during medieval times. The Khajuraho temples were built over a span of 200 years, from 950 to 1150. These temples are considered to be one of the "seven wonders" of India, and when you see the graphic and explicit kamasutra carvings one "wonders" what that is all about! One theory is that an ancient Hindu king constructed the temples as a way of enticing his disinterested son into manhood. Whatever the reason, the temples are quite a sight.
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