Randy's 50th birthday travel adventures

In January and February 2011 I had the fabulous opportunity to travel through Northern India and Nepal. The photos and stories in this blog document my adventures and experiences; what I saw and what I learned. My travel started in Delhi, India and then led me to the spiritual town of Rishikesh, India for a week long stay at a yoga ashram - Rishikesh Yog Peeth. After that I traveled to Khajuraho, India to view the ancient Hindu erotic temples, tour a local farming town, and spend the day at a small Indian village. Next I traveled to the holy Hindu city of Varanasi where life revolves in and around the holy Ganges River. I spent a day visiting the town of Sarnath where Buddha offered his first teachings, and which served as a pre-cursor for my trip to Nepal and the Kopan Monastery to study meditation and Buddhism. After Varanasi, I flew to Kathmandu and spent a couple of days walking the streets of the city before venturing about a half-hour above the city to the Kopan Monastery for a week-long retreat to study meditation and Buddhism. Afterward I went back to Delhi and took a day trip to Agra to see the Taj Mahal.

Sightseeing in Delhi - Jain Temple and the bird hospital

Across the street from the Red Fort is a magnificent Jain Temple. The Jains also operate a bird hospital next door to the temple which houses injured bird which are rehabilitated and released back into the wild.

Sightseeing in Delhi - Humayun's Tomb

Humayun's tomb is the tomb of the Mughal Emperor Humayun, and set the precedent for Mughal architecture ultimately leading to the construction of the Taj Mahal.

Diary from Delhi - Day 2

               Wow - another dizzying day spent running around Delhi! I started off on a quest to find a SIM card (finally) with the folks from Beijing. We took a short subway ride to an area recommended by the hotel. Like most areas in Delhi it's a circle and after making about three trips around we found a tiny shop packed with people -- a copy service, a notary, a phone guy, and no telling what else!

             Fortunately I was told ahead what to expect when a foreigner wants a SIM card - so I was prepared: "Sorry sir you need your passport to purchase a sim card." I came prepared and even had extra copies of my passport. "Sorry sir you will need a passport size photograph also." I was prepared for that ridiculous requirement, but didn't have any other those. "OK sir, you will have to go to the photo booth store; it's just around the corner. He will take your photograph and then you will come back here and purchase your sim card." So after two more trips around the circle, we found the photo studio. "OK sir that will be 50 rupees. Me: "OK whatever." Now with passport photos in hand we went back around (only once this time) to the sim card man. This time the store was beyond standing room only - apparently everyone in India run out of phone time at the same time! OK, get the card, put it in, and of course, it doesn't work! What?! Go back to store - directly without anymore needless circles. "Hey sir, the phone doesn't work." SIM card man: "You will wait until after 1:30 and it will work." What?! "Yes, sir, that is required for the phone to be activated." (Did I mention that it was also required that I sign the forms in 6 different places and put in my local address, my home address, and my father's name - go figure!

            So now it's time for lunch, and maybe a good opportunity to let the digital world catch up to us. So after making 2 more passes around the circle we found a lovely Indian restaurant and had a great meal. OK sir, it's time for the phone to work. "No sir, not just yet. You turn it off and wait 2 more minutes and then turn it back on." Yeah right. So with Vikram's name, number and address (I forgot to get his father's name - damn) we walked around the circle one more time and found our way back to the subway. That was at 1:00 today - it's now 7:00 pm and I successfully placed my first call - to the couple from Beijing -- I still can't place a call home! Oh well. How about an e-mail? Oh yeah, and there was still time to visit the Qutab Minar and the most overwhelming site - Humayan's Tomb. I'm off to Rishikesh by train tomorrow and we'll see if I can successfully call someone other than Beijing and his wife.


            Everything works in India - EVENTUALLY!

Sightseeing in Delhi - Lotus Temple

One of the most amazing sites was the expressionistic Baha'i Lotus Temple.

Sightseeing in Delhi - Qutab Minar

        Qutab Minar is the world's tallest brick minaret. Construction was started in 1193 by Delhi's 1st Muslim ruler and was completed in 1368. The red and buff sandstone structure is an early example of Indo-Islamic architecture.

Sightseeing in Delhi - Akshardham Hindu Temple

       A short subway ride out of Old Delhi took me to the banks of the Yamuna River and to the Akshardham Hindu Temple, reportedly the largest Hindu temple in the world. The building is constructed entirely of pink sandstone and marble and contains no steel or concrete, and is a monument to Swaminarayan Hinduism. Entry to the facility was tightly secured and absolutely no contraband was permitted - no cameras, no pens, no nothing except the clothes on your back! Therefore, the only photos I could take were from the subway platform.

Delhi artwork and street scenes

      Artwork and religious icon are everywhere around town. One of the subway stops had a great exhibit of various artwork by artists from around India. Every nook and cranny seems to be a repository for some religious Hindu icon, deity, goddess, or temple.

Diary from Delhi - Day 1

               All I can say is WOW! Delhi is 1000 times Mexico City. The minute you set out on the streets your senses are hit (or better yet,slammed) with everything - people, honking, traffic, more people, and sights beyond belief. I was on and off the subway all day, and believe it or not - never got lost! I started off at the Khan Market looking to exchange money. I wondered around a little bit - lots of small shops - and people everywhere. It's hard getting used to drivers coming from the opposite direction and I tend to walk to the right of people instead of their left! After walking around I decided to continue on to another area. I got back on the subway and went to Chandni Chowk market area. This was absolutely amazing. There were even more people and much more commotion. It was perfect for me because I just wondered around checking out the sights without any sense of direction. Lots of small markets built into the side of everything, and people selling everything imaginable. There are mostly men walking around the streets who were engaged all sorts of work-related activities. There are fewer women on the streets and those walking around are dressed in saris of all sorts of colors.
              It's interesting that everything seems to have a brown hue - people's skin, their clothing, the dirt which is everywhere, and even the haze in the sky. People are friendly but seemed focused on what they were doing and where they are headed. (I guess that's why I'm avoiding colliding with them and not the other way around!) Navigating the streets, sidewalks, and in between the cars, trucks, carts (pulled by cows, horses, and people) is an adventure all to itself. Paying attention is an absolute necessity or you are bound to be run over by something or someone.
           After wondering around the market for an hour or two, I got back on the subway and went to Connaught Place. This was another maddening place with lots of traffic and people. The stores and shops are a little more upscale and touristy. This was the only place there was any type of hassle - lots of young guys offering to lead you to all sorts of shops and restaurants, or wanting to shine your shoes or clean your ears. I read about a restaurant in my India guide book and after a little searching found it. What a great relief to finally sit down! By then it was around 5:00 and I got back on the subway and went to evening tour of the Red Fort. The fort was an incredible structure but after 30 minutes the show became a little boring. After that it was time to head home to start scrubbing the filth off my weary body. It was an incredible day seeing the sights, the people, and being in the middle of the chaos and madness that is Delhi, India!

Delhi - Chandni Chowk bazaar market

         Life exists on the streets in Delhi. Anything someone needs can be found on the streets in Delhi - bike parts, food, haircuts and a shave, fruits & vegetables, fish and meat markets.